They are often described as having increased depth, complexity and structure. Phrases such as "a certain je ne sais quoi" tend to crop up when winemakers talk about old vine wines. If it is not carefully matched to both variety and soil it can have a negative effect. It makes sense that grafted vines introduce another variable to the equation the rootstock. Ad hoc investigations often fail to clearly unravel the question of "old vs not old" from the question of "grafted vs ungrafted". Just why old vines produce less leaves and fruit is not yet understood.Ī definitive answer is almost impossible, largely due to inconsistency of terms of reference. Definitions of vine age tend to be couched in terms of external appearance and reduction in performance. Within viticulture the situation is no different. Because of global conflict and economic slumps, most grafted old vines in Europe were planted after World War II.Īll research towards an understanding of reasons for, and mechanisms of senescence (biological aging) is in its infancy. Many of the earliest grafted vines from the late 19th Century failed. The very oldest grafted vines generally date back to the early 1900s. This has led to a situation where there are greater concentrations of very old vines in New World vineyards. In Europe, Phylloxera crisis ravaged vineyards to the extent that many were ripped out, to be replaced by new vines grafted onto American rootstocks. The former is strongly influenced by hormone (auxin) production with the flowering organ in the canopy. Root growth and canopy growth are connected closely. They have less energy which they focus into fewer things, are gnarled in appearance and seem to have "wisdom".Ĭalifornian winemaker Sean Thackrey defines old vine status as being when the root system has reached its fullest extent. Anthropomorphosis often creeps in when discussing old vines. Figures between 25 and 40 years of age tend to be mentioned as the optimum period of a vine's cropping life. Conveniently, this equates to a human generation. The term is often equated to the age when a drop in canopy vigor and fruit yield is noticeable. The labels for top priced examples, from Martinelli, Turley, Williams Selyem and others tend to shout "single vineyard" rather than "old vine". Thus we have bag in box versions through to super-premium bottles of "Old Vine Zinfandel". The concept of old vines in California is subject to variables such as AVA, producer, production methods and rarity value. Many vineyards that existed pre-1985 have disappeared or been replanted with a more fashionable or higher-quality grape variety. In New Zealand, the vast majority of plantings came post-2000, so early 1990s vines would be viewed in a different light. The latter might be seen as just entering their cropping sweet spot, and are perhaps a decade short of adding to the state's old-vine portfolio. The earliest vineyards in Oregon date to the 1960s, and there was a subsequent wave of planting in the early 1990s. However, the average age of vines can vary widely from one region to the next, so thresholds for old vine status will vary too. But there is no consistent worldwide definition for what age a vine has to reach for it to become old.īlatant misuse of the term is rare. Several countries or winegrowing regions have programs in place to identify, register, classify and protect old vineyards. Many of these wines, such as Cheval Blanc, relied on vines planted after the severe 1956 frosts. The most famous example is the legendary 1961 Bordeaux vintage. No legal definitions are in place to govern use of the term.Īnd great wines can be made from young vines. For marketers the vines' venerability is a useful attribute to communicate. This ties in with many wine producers views that terroir expression increases with vine age (more on this later). The feeling that an old vine carries a greater sense of place might be understood on varying levels. Most enthusiasts will have some idea that lower-yielding old vines put the energy into a lower number of berries, and so quality increases. But most will have at best a hazy idea of why this is so. The term "old vines" – or Alte Reben (German), Vieilles Vignes (French), Viñas Viejas (Spanish) and Vinhas Velhas (Portuguese) – appears on many wine labels.Ĭonsumers will generally register this as a sign of quality.
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